Support local wildlife: Native plants are the foundation of healthy ecosystems. They've co-evolved with local wildlife over thousands of years, providing essential food and habitat. For example, native oak trees can support over 550 species of moths and butterflies, whose caterpillars feed countless birds. Non-native plants typically support far fewer species - sometimes as few as 5 compared to a native's 550.

Less maintenance, more success: Because native plants evolved in Massachusetts' climate and soils, they're naturally adapted to our weather patterns, seasonal changes, and moisture conditions. Once established, they typically require less watering, fertilizing, and pest control than non-native plants. They're inherently tougher and better equipped to handle our New England extremes, from summer droughts to harsh winters.

Environmental benefits: Native plants help combat climate change by sequestering carbon, managing stormwater runoff, and reducing the need for chemical inputs. Their deep root systems prevent erosion and improve soil health. They also reduce the urban heat island effect and help filter air and water naturally.

Support pollinators: Our native bees, butterflies, and other pollinators are struggling due to habitat loss and invasive species. Native plants provide the specific nectar, pollen, and host plant relationships these creatures need to survive and reproduce. Many of our native pollinators can only complete their life cycles on specific native plants they've evolved with.

Preserve Massachusetts' natural heritage: By choosing native plants, you're helping preserve the unique character of New England's landscapes and protecting species that are increasingly threatened by development and invasive plants. You become part of a growing movement to restore and maintain the biodiversity that makes our region special.

Beautiful and diverse: Native plants offer stunning seasonal interest, from spring wildflowers and summer blooms to brilliant fall foliage and winter seed heads that feed birds. There are native plants for every garden condition - sun, shade, wet, dry - providing endless design possibilities while supporting nature.

Native Plants are species that have existed historically in Massachusetts prior to European colonization in the 1600s. These plants evolved naturally with our local climate, soils, and wildlife over thousands of years, growing here without any human intervention.

Non-Native Plants are plants that were either intentionally or accidentally brought to an area where they did not exist naturally. This includes plants from other continents, but also plants brought here from other parts of North America. Many popular garden plants like Norway maple, purple loosestrife, and even dandelions are non-native to Massachusetts.

Naturalized Plants represent a special category within non-native plants. These are non-native plants that no longer require human help to reproduce and maintain themselves over time. They can reproduce naturally in their new environment - examples include oxeye daisy and common dandelion, which reproduce abundantly on their own in Massachusetts. However, even though naturalized plants reproduce and spread naturally, they never become native members of the local plant community.

Why This Matters for Your Garden: Native plants have co-evolved with local wildlife over millennia. For example, native oaks can host over 550 different species of moths and butterflies, providing vital food sources for birds. In contrast, non-native trees like ginkgo can only host about 5 species. This is why choosing native plants creates much richer habitat for Massachusetts wildlife than even well-established naturalized species.

The honest answer is: it's complicated. While many native plants are less preferred by deer, no plant is truly "deer-proof." Many variables affect what deer choose to eat, including how hungry they are, what other food is available, weather conditions, and the deer population density in your area.

Why some natives are deer resistant: Many native plants have evolved natural defenses that make them less palatable to browsing animals. These include strong scents, bitter tastes, toxic compounds, or tough, fuzzy textures that deer find unappetizing. Plants like native mountain laurel, bayberry, and many aromatic herbs fall into this category.

The reality check: In late winter and early spring, when deer are hungriest, they'll eat almost anything - including plants they normally avoid. A hungry deer will browse on "deer-resistant" plants without hesitation. Young plants are also more vulnerable than established ones, regardless of their supposed deer resistance.

The better approach: Rather than relying solely on "deer-resistant" plants, consider a multi-pronged strategy: choose less preferred plants when possible, protect young plantings with barriers until established, and consider deer population management in your community. Even if deer do browse native plants occasionally, these plants typically recover better than non-natives because they're adapted to natural browsing patterns.

Bottom line: Native plants aren't a magic solution to deer problems, but many are less attractive to deer than typical garden plants, and they'll recover more quickly if browsed because they're adapted to our local ecosystem - including its native herbivores.

Fall is often the ideal time to plant most native species in New England. Fall planting offers several key advantages: rainfall is usually more plentiful, temperatures are cooler (reducing heat stress), and the warm fall soil temperatures allow roots to grow until the ground freezes. This gives plants a strong foundation for the following spring and helps them survive the hot, dry conditions of the next summer with their more extensive root systems.

Spring planting is also excellent, particularly for more tender natives or if you missed the fall window. The ideal spring timing is after the last frost date, which varies across Massachusetts from early May in warmer areas to mid-June in colder regions. Massachusetts is in USDA hardiness zones 5-7, with an average growing season of about 150 days between the last spring frost and first fall frost.

Specific timing recommendations:

• Fall planting window: Generally September through October, about 6 weeks before the first hard frost

• Spring planting window: After the last frost date (typically early May to mid-June depending on your location)

• Trees and shrubs: Both spring and fall work well, though fall gives them more time to establish roots before summer stress

• Perennials: Can be planted in either season, though fall-planted perennials often perform better the following year

Special considerations:

• Cool-season natives can be planted earlier in spring or later in fall

• Warm-season grasses and plants should wait until soil has warmed in late spring

• Container plants have more flexibility in timing than bare-root plants

• Coastal areas can plant slightly later in fall due to milder conditions

The key is giving plants enough time to establish before facing their biggest stress periods - either summer heat or winter cold. At our nursery, we stock plants throughout both seasons to give you the best selection for your optimal planting window.

The difference between partial shade and partial sun is subtle but important for plant selection:

Partial Sun:

• 3-6 hours of direct sunlight per day

• Usually gets morning sun (which is less intense)

• Emphasis is on the sun the area receives

• Better for plants that need some direct light to flower or fruit well

Partial Shade:

• 3-6 hours of direct sunlight per day (same amount as partial sun)

• Often gets filtered light through trees or structures

• Usually receives less intense afternoon sun

• Emphasis is on the shade protection the area provides

The Key Difference: While both get the same amount of sunlight hours, partial sun areas tend to have more direct, unfiltered light, while partial shade areas have more dappled or filtered light. Partial sun is often considered slightly brighter overall.

Practical Impact:

• Partial sun plants usually need that direct light for good production

• Partial shade plants prefer gentler, filtered light and may struggle with too much direct sun

Many plants tolerate both conditions, but if you're on the border between the two, consider whether your space gets harsh afternoon sun (lean toward partial shade plants) or gentle morning sun (partial sun plants work well).

The morning vs. afternoon timing of the sunlight often matters more than the technical distinction between these terms.

The simple answer: Usually not. One of the greatest advantages of native plants is that they've evolved to thrive in local soil conditions exactly as they naturally occur. They're adapted to Massachusetts' soils, including their pH, nutrient levels, and structure.

The "right plant, right place" principle: Rather than amending soil to suit plants, it's better to choose native plants suited to your existing soil conditions. Massachusetts has diverse soils - from sandy coastal areas to clay-rich inland regions to rocky woodland soils. There are native plants adapted to each of these conditions.

When soil amendments might help:

• Compacted soil: Add organic compost to improve structure and drainage

• Severely disturbed soil: A thin layer of leaf compost can help get plants established

• Extremely poor soil: Minimal organic matter can help, but choose plants suited to challenging conditions rather than trying to drastically change the soil

Natural soil building: Native plant gardens are largely self-sustaining. When you leave fallen leaves and plant debris in place (rather than cleaning up), they decompose naturally, creating the organic matter and nutrients plants need. This mimics how forest floors and meadows naturally regenerate.

Massachusetts-specific considerations: Our soils tend to be naturally acidic, which suits many of our native plants like blueberries, mountain laurel, and woodland wildflowers. Many native plants also evolved with our granite-based, often rocky soils and don't need the rich, amended soils that many garden plants require.

Bottom line: Work with your soil, not against it. Choose native plants suited to your existing conditions, and let natural processes do the work of maintaining soil health. This approach is not only easier for you but creates a more sustainable, lower-maintenance landscape that truly supports local ecosystems.